Birding Guide to Carden Alvar

Ron Pittaway

Please print copies of site guide and map for use in the field.

Introduction: This site guide features a 35 kilometre (21 mile) car birding tour that includes a route description, map, other birding areas to explore, and an annotated bird list. The tour leads through scenic back roads where the birds, wildflowers, butterflies, wildlife and night sounds will bring you back again and again. The alvar is named after the former Carden Township in the former Victoria County, which is now the City of Kawartha Lakes. The Carden Alvar lies east of Lake Simcoe and just south of the Canadian (Precambrian) Shield.    

Important Bird Area: The Carden Alvar (Plain) is designated as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by Birdlife International. Carden is an IBA because it is nationally significant as one of the last strongholds of the Eastern Loggerhead Shrike and because it has high populations of grassland birds, a declining group in North America. Carden has significant breeding populations of Upland Sandpipers, American Kestrels, Common Nighthawks, Whip-poor-wills, Eastern Bluebirds, Brown Thrashers, Eastern Towhees, Clay-colored Sparrows, Vesper Sparrows,  Grasshopper Sparrows, Bobolinks, and Eastern Meadowlarks.

Birding Season: The breeding birds are best seen in late May and June, but anytime between mid-May and mid-July is excellent. Weather is cool to warm in May, mild to hot in June, and usually hot in July. Poison Ivy is common along roadsides. Learn its three distinctive leaflets and avoid it. Insects are rarely a problem during the daytime, but bring repellant just in case. Black flies are present in small numbers from mid-May to early June. They may be a nuisance on humid days, especially just before sunset. Black flies are not active at night! Mosquitoes are most active near wetlands just after sunset.

Getting to Carden: The Carden Alvar is a 1.5 hour drive (125 km or 75 mi) northeast of Toronto. See small inset map at top left of map. To print a full page map see ?????. Carden is an easy day trip from the Hamilton to Oshawa corridor. Departing from Toronto, take Highway 401 or Don Valley Parkway to Highway 404 north to Newmarket. Exit to Davis Drive and go right (east) to provincial Highway 48. Turn left (north) on 48 and continue to where it meets provincial Highway 12. Go left (north) on Highway 12 about 12.5 km and exit right (east) to Durham Highway 48, which becomes Kawartha Road 48. Follow 48 for 19 km to Kirkfield. At main intersection, turn left (north) on Kirkfield Road 6 and go 3 km to the Lift Lock where the birding tour begins.

Birding Tour - see map

Tour Overview: The 35 km (21 mile) route begins at the Kirkfield Lift Lock and ends at Highway 48 about 5.5 km west of Kirkfield. The 6 stops are enclosed in circles on the map and distances between stops are given in the route descriptions. At Stop 1 set odometer to zero. Distances between stops are cumulative. Relax and go slowly. Bring a lunch and get set to experience an abundance of Ontario's grassland and shrubland birds as they were 75 years ago before intensive agriculture. Refer often to annotated list of birds. Scan with binoculars the tops of shrubs, tufts of grass, boulders, dead trees and fences for singing birds. Use your telescope to get great views grassland birds.

1. Kirkfield Lift Lock: km 0. The Trent-Severn Waterway, operated by Parks Canada, connects Lake Ontario and Lake Huron. The hydraulic Lift Lock is the second largest in the world. There is a pay parking lot on the left just after the underpass. The facilities include washrooms, picnic area and nearby restaurant. If you return later for a picnic lunch at the Lift Lock, the birding is excellent. Take the stairs to the top of the Lift Lock. Scan for hawks, Osprey and Turkey Vulture. Check the swallows for Cliff and Northern Rough-winged. Also bird the narrow trail going west 0.4 km along the north edge of the canal to where it meets the Talbot River. Be careful along the edge of the canal. Return by going up the bank and birding the meadow and shrubbery back to the Lift Lock. You cannot get lost here being surrounded by the Talbot River, canal and road. This is public land owned by the federal government.

2. Wylie Road: km 2.6. From the Lift Lock, drive 2.5 km north, turn right (east) on McNamee Road where Kawartha Road 6 turns sharply to the left. Then turn left (north) almost immediately on Wylie Road (first road) and park on the shoulder. Wylie Road ends 9.4 km to the north at a "T" intersection (Stop 4). You will soon discover why this is the best early summer birding road in southern Ontario. Watch for Upland Sandpiper, Eastern Kingbird, Eastern Bluebird, Horned Lark, House Wren, Brown Thrasher, Savannah Sparrow, Vesper Sparrow, Bobolink, Baltimore Oriole, Eastern Meadowlark and many more species. Drive slowly, stopping frequently to enjoy the multitude of birds. In the large meadow just north of the house on the left, listen and look for Grasshopper Sparrow. Watch for Loggerhead Shrike between 0.4 and 0.8 km north of the house.

4. To Carden "T": km 12. It is 6.6 km from Sedge Wren Marsh to the Alvar Road or Carden T. This section goes through dry and wet meadows and scrub forests rich in songbirds. Drive slowly and stop several times. Golden-winged Warbler, Indigo Bunting, Eastern Towhee and Field Sparrow are in the scrubby areas with scattered trees. Listen for Clay-colored Sparrow about 0.5 km before the T. Watch for patches of Prairie Smoke, a characteristic alvar wildflower. At night, drive and watch for the bright eye shine of Common Nighthawk and Whip-poor-will sitting on the road. Listen for Coyotes.

5. To Kawartha Road 6: km 21. Turn left (west) at the "T" onto Alvar Road towards Lake Dalrymple. It is 4.7 km to the next left turn at the Lake Dalrymple Road. This section goes through a coniferous forest with several small alvar openings. Singing Hermit Thrush, Magnolia Warbler, Yellow-rumped Warbler, White-throated Sparrow, Purple Finch and sometimes Evening Grosbeak lend a distinct northern flavour. Turn left at the intersection with the Lake Dalrymple Road and soon you will enter a cottage area on the east shore of Lake Dalrymple. There is a resort store here if you need a drink, snack, washroom break or gasoline. South of the store 1.3 km, you can get a good view of the lake opposite a rock cut on the left. Check for Black Terns and other water birds. Continue to the junction with Kawartha Road 6, where there may be Purple Martins at the house on the left.

6. To Highway 48: km 35. Turn left onto Kirkfield Road 6. Go 5 km to the large open alvar on your left. This is the Cameron Ranch. Scan the ranch for grassland birds including Loggerhead Shrike. In 2004 there were six pairs on the ranch. Continue 2 km and turn right on Kawartha Road 33 which leads to the causeway across Canal Lake. There are several Osprey nests along the causeway. Watch for Common Loons and Common Terns. Continue 3.5 km to Highway 48, where the tour ends. Turn right for Toronto or left for Kirkfield.

More Birding Areas - see map

For locations below see letters A to E on map.

A. Victoria Road 35: Instead of going left (west) on Alvar Road at Stop 4, go right (east) to Kawartha Road 35. Be careful turning right (south) at this blind intersection. Kawartha Road 35 is paved and traffic is usually light. Bird your way to Highway 48. Turn right and go 4.5 km to Kirkfield. Or go east to Kawartha Road 35 from Kirkfield and bird it going north. Do not confuse this road with provincial Highway 35 farther east at Coboconk.

B. Juniper Trail: Accessible from Kirkfield Road 6 on left 1 km north of the Lift Lock. Most grassland birds, including Loggerhead Shrike, are possible here. Allow 2 hours to walk a 4 km return trip. Do not drive Juniper Trail without a 4-wheel drive.

C. Cranberry Lake: Birding is excellent along the very narrow 3.0 km road on the west side of Cranberry Lake. Black Tern and Least Bittern breed here. Listen for Marsh Wren and Sandhill Crane. Yellow Rail has been heard here in May.

D. Prospect Road: The former Eldon Township has excellent birding. Prospect Road (Concession 5) goes south from Highway 48 about 4.0 km west of Kirkfield. It is 11 km to Glenarm Road 8 through scrub, woodlots, meadows, marshes and swamps. Of interest is the large marsh 2.5 km south of 48. Sora, Virginia Rail, and Least Bittern are found (heard) here. Yellow Rail has been heard here in May. Some birders say that Eldon reminds them of the Rainy River District in far northwestern Ontario.

E. Exploring: Look on map for the letter E to explore other roads.
 

Annotated List of Carden Alvar Birds

This list covers the main breeding season from mid-May to mid-July. Abundance status is given for each species. Specialty birds are shown in italics and they have extra information on habitat, voice and finding tips. Vagrants and most very rare birds are not included, but any bird recorded in southern Ontario could occur. For the official Ontario Bird Checklist see www.ofo.ca/obrc/chcklst.htm
 
Loons, Grebes, Cormorants: Common Loon is uncommon. Pied-billed Grebe is rare. Double-crested Cormorant is uncommon and increasing.
 
Herons, Bitterns: American Bittern is fairly common but secretive. Stop 3 is the best spot. Most often seen in flight. Listen for its deep bass pump-er-lunk at dawn and dusk or on cloudy days. Scan short grass areas in the direction of its song for a bitterns bill and head pointing up. Least Bittern is very rare and secretive in large cattail marshes. Sings a low cuckoo-like coo-coo-coo-coo at dawn and dusk. Best spots are Cranberry Lake and Prospect Road marsh. Great Blue Heron is fairly common. Green Heron is rare in swamps with dead trees.

Ducks, Geese: Canada Goose, Mallard and Blue-winged Teal are fairly common. Wood Duck (uncommon) and Hooded Merganser (rare) are secretive in summer. Other ducks are occasional in summer.
 
Diurnal Raptors: The following 5 species are fairly common, usually seen in open areas: Turkey Vulture, Osprey, Northern Harrier, Red-tailed Hawk and American Kestrel. The next 5 raptors are secretive, usually staying in the forest or seen flying across openings to another woods. All soar in the open at times: Red-shouldered Hawk (rare), Broad-winged Hawk (uncommon), Sharp-shinned Hawk (uncommon), Cooper's Hawk (uncommon), Northern Goshawk (rare). Merlin is increasing.
 
Grouse, Turkeys: Ruffed Grouse is uncommon. It drums at dusk and early morning to early June. Wild Turkey is uncommon and increasing.

Rails: Yellow Rail is rare migrant in May and occasionally may breed. It prefers short grass/sedge marshes with shallow water. Listen for rapid clicking tic-tic, tic-tic-tic at dawn and dusk, all night, and sometimes on cloudy days. Stop 3 is the best spot, but also heard at Cranberry Lake and Prospect Road marsh. Virginia Rail is common. Sora is uncommon. Common Moorhen and American Coot are very rare.
  
Cranes: Sandhill Crane is rare but increasing. Listen and watch for it at Sedge Wren Marsh (Stop 3) and Cranberry Lake. Its far carrying vibrant gar-oo-ooo call is usually heard before the crane is seen.
  
Plovers: Killdeer is a fairly common breeder.

Gulls, Terns: Ring-billed Gull is fairly common. Herring Gull is uncommon. Common Tern breeds at Canal Lake. Black Tern breeds at Cranberry Lake and marshy narrows of Lake Dalrymple.
  
Pigeons, Doves: Rock Pigeon is uncommon. Mourning Dove is common.
  
Cuckoos: Black-billed Cuckoo is uncommon and secretive in thickets with scattered trees. Arrives in late May and increases during outbreaks of Tent Caterpillars. More often heard, but sometimes seen flying low across openings. Yellow-billed Cuckoo is rare in similar habitat.

Owls: Great Horned Owl is heard year round. Barred Owl is rare. Short-eared Owl is seen rarely at dusk and dawn hunting over meadows. Long-eared Owl is heard occasionally. Northern Saw-whet Owl calls from mid-February to May. Eastern Screech-Owl is very rare.
  
Goatsuckers: Common Nighthawk is common and conspicuous at dusk (often day active) after mid-May in open areas. Call is a nasal bizert and it performs spectacular booming nose dives. The American Woodcock's call is mistaken for a nighthawk, but it comes from the ground whereas nighthawk calls in flight. A nighthawk heard before mid-May is probably a woodcock. Whip-poor-will is common in young woodlands with openings. Begins loud song at dusk. At night, watch for the bright reflective eye shine of both Whip-poor-will and nighthawk sitting on back roads.
  
Swifts, Hummingbirds, Kingfishers: Chimney Swift is rare. Ruby-throated Hummingbird is fairly common. Belted Kingfisher is uncommon.

Woodpeckers: Red-headed Woodpecker is a rare and declining breeder in open areas with scattered large dead trees used for nesting. Other woodpeckers, except Northern Flicker, are hard to find in summer. Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Downy, Hairy and Pileated  Woodpeckers (most often seen in flight) are regular. Listen for taps and calls.
  
Flycatchers: 1. Alder Flycatcher is fairly common in wet alder thickets. Song is raspy wee-bee-o often given from a dead branch. 2. Willow Flycatcher is uncommon but increasing in willows, dogwoods and shrubs, preferring drier sites than Alder. Learn its fitz-bew song. 3 Eastern Wood-Pewee, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Phoebe, Great Crested Flycatcher and Eastern Kingbird are common. Learn their songs.
  
Shrikes: Loggerhead Shrike is an endangered species. In 2004 there were about 13 breeding pairs. Look for shrikes in actively grazed pastures with short grass and scattered clumps of hawthorns, for example, in areas where the cow symbols are on the map. Ungrazed areas quickly become unsuitable breeding habitat because they overgrow with tall grasses, shrubs and trees. Northern Shrikes occur in Carden from late September to late April, but breed in the northern Ontario. See www.ofo.ca/shrike.htm for shrike identification. You can print a copy.
  
Vireos: Listen for their distinctive songs, but they are hard to see. Warbling Vireo (tall open deciduous trees) and Red-eyed Vireo (deciduous woods) are common. Yellow-throated Vireo is very rare in mature oak/maple woods. Blue-headed Vireo is rare in dry mature coniferous woods.

Jays, Crows, Ravens: Common Raven is uncommon but increasing and spreading south. Listen for adults distinctive croak or high pitched calls of young. American Crow and Blue Jay are fairly common.
  
Larks: Horned Lark is uncommon in open areas of short grass and bare ground associated with heavy cattle grazing. Sometimes sings from rocks and fence posts. Caution: Juvenile Horned Larks are mistaken for pipits or longspurs, but these species do not summer in southern Ontario. Horned Larks breeding in Carden are the Prairie Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris praticola) subspecies.
  
Swallows: Tree and Barn Swallows are common. Northern Rough-winged and Cliff Swallows are uncommon. Bank Swallow is rare. Purple Martin is rare and declining.
  
Chickadees, Nuthatches, Creepers: Black-capped Chickadee is fairly common. Red-breasted (conifers) and White-breasted (hardwoods) Nuthatches are uncommon. Brown Creeper (wet woods) is uncommon. All hard to find in summer.

Wrens: Learn distinctive songs. 1. Sedge Wren is uncommon in sedge/grass marshes with scattered shrubs, not in cattails. Learn tip-tip-tip titititititititititi song. Sings partly hidden in tuft of grass or in a low bush, sometimes in the open! 2. Marsh Wren is uncommon in cattail marshes, not in sedge/grass marshes. Sings its distinctive rattling song all day and on bright nights. Best spots are Cranberry Lake and marsh along Prospect Road. 3. House Wren is common. 4. Winter Wren is rare in wet woods.

Kinglets and Gnatcatchers: Golden-crowned Kinglet is rare and hard to see in tall dense spruce. Listen for its high pitched calls and song. Blue-gray Gnatcatcher is very rare.
 
Thrushes: Eastern Bluebird is common at nest boxes along back roads. American Robin is common. The following are secretive and usually heard only: Hermit Thrush (open coniferous) is fairly common. Veery (moist deciduous edges) and Wood Thrush (mature deciduous) are uncommon.

Catbirds, Mockingbirds, Thrashers: 1. Brown Thrasher is fairly common in dry thickets near young woods. Secretive. Sings from a high perch. 2. Gray Catbird is uncommon, preferring moister habitats. Sings from a low to medium height perch. 3. Northern Mockingbird is very rare.

European Starling: Common and widespread breeder.
 
Waxwings: Cedar Waxwing is fairly common after late May.
 
Warblers: Study songs and habitats. 1. Golden-winged Warbler is uncommon in moist alder thickets and young aspens on drier sites. Listen for its buzzy bee bz bz bz song, first note loudest. Singing male perched at a distance looks like a chickadee! Blue-winged Warbler and hybrid Brewster's Warbler are very rare. 2. Alvar Road is best spot for many of the following regular species. Learn their songs: Nashville Warbler (young open woods), Yellow Warbler (aspen/alder/willow near water), Chestnut-sided Warbler (shrubby woodland edges), Magnolia Warbler (small spruce/fir), Black-throated Blue Warbler (understory shrubs of deciduous and mixed woods), Yellow-rumped Warbler (mixed woods), Black-throated Green Warbler (tall evergreens), Blackburnian Warbler (tall evergreens), Black-and white Warbler (moist deciduous and mixed woods), American Redstart (woodland edges), Ovenbird (dry closed canopy deciduous woods), Northern Waterthrush (wooded swamps), Mourning Warbler (low bushy openings), Common Yellowthroat (swamps/marshes with bushes) and Canada Warbler (moist mixed woods).
 
Tanagers: Scarlet Tanager is uncommon in mature mixed woods. Sings from a high perch, but hard to spot.
 
Sparrows: 1. Eastern Towhee is fairly common but secretive in dry, partly open scrublands with tangled undergrowth and scattered young trees. Sometimes sings from a high dead limb. Heard calling chewink from tangles. Responds to pishing and squeaking. 2. Clay-colored Sparrow is uncommon in dry open scrubby fields, usually with scattered small conifers. Also found in Christmas tree plantations in Eldon Township. Often found by hearing its buzzy song. 3. Field Sparrow is fairly common in dry open scrub. Learn its song. 4. Vesper Sparrow is fairly common in very short dry grass pastures with some bare ground. Other sparrows prefer taller grass. 5. Grasshopper Sparrow is fairly common but secretive in dry grass meadows with scattered perches. Sings from a low bush, rock or fence. 6. Henslow's Sparrow is an endangered species. Overly reported from Carden. Fairly common in southern Ontario in 1960s, but it has declined to a few sightings in recent years, mostly spring migrants at Point Pelee. Its disappearance is a mystery as suitable habitat remains. Prefers taller grass fields, often moister than Grasshopper Sparrow. Secretive, rarely seen unless singing from a low bush or tussock of grass at dawn and dusk. Sings at night too. Be sure to hear its distinctive insect-like tes-lick song, second syllable louder. Note its greenish face and reddish wings. 7. Listen for the very rare Le Conte's Sparrow in slightly damp tall grass fields. 8. Other sparrows: Chipping, Savannah, Song and Swamp Sparrows are common. White-throated Sparrow is uncommon.
 
Cardinals, Grosbeaks, Buntings: Northern Cardinal is rare. Rose-breasted Grosbeak is fairly common. Indigo Bunting is uncommon in tangles, openings and tall trees, often sings from a high dead branch.
 
Blackbirds, Orioles, Meadowlarks: Brewer's Blackbird is rare around cattle and grazed areas. It likes fences and road shoulders. Other blackbirds: Bobolink, Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle, Brown-headed Cowbird and Baltimore Oriole are common. Eastern Meadowlark is common. Western Meadowlark is very rare and declining.
 
Finches: Purple Finch and House Finch are uncommon. American Goldfinch is common. Evening Grosbeak is rare and irregular.
 
House Sparrow: Rare and declining around farms and villages.

More About Carden

Alvars: Alvars are globally rare habitats supporting many threatened and endangered species. Alvars are naturally open areas of flat limestone or marble bedrock either at the surface (classic alvar pavement) or covered with thin soils and a sparse vegetation of lichens, mosses, herbs and shrubs. Trees are absent or scattered, rarely forming a closed canopy. They are harsh places for many plants to grow. Plant growth is restricted by shallow soils and extremes of spring wetness and summer drought. Recent studies indicate the important ecological role of periodic fires in maintaining alvar habitats. Much of the Carden Alvar is ranchland. Cattle grazing helps maintain the short grass open habitats preferred by Loggerhead Shrikes and many grassland birds. However, heavy grazing damages sensitive alvar habitats and plants. There are four active quarries in Carden and others are expected because of increasing demands for valuable mineral aggregates in the Greater Toronto Area.

Ecotourism: Support local businesses. Birders contribute to the economy by buying gas, eating at restaurants and using accommodations. Proudly wear your binoculars everywhere you go. Tell people about the grassland birds and natural values of the Carden Alvar.

Services, Accommodation, Food and Fuel: The Sir William Mackenzie Inn, a bed and breakfast in Kirkfield, welcomes birders. Birding is excellent on the trails of its 5.3 ha (13 acre) estate. Call toll free 800-266-6025 or phone/fax 705-438-1278 or website www.themackenzieinn.com. Motels are along Highway 48 at Beaverton (Budget Inn 705-426-1800) and Orillia. Camping is available at Balsam Lake Provincial Park, 12 km east of Kirkfield on Kawartha Road 48. Call toll free 888-668-7275 to reserve a campsite in a provincial park. Restaurants are in Kirkfield, the Lift Lock and Lake Dalrymple Resort. Gas stations are along Highway 48 just east and west of Kirkfield.

Back Roads: The back roads are narrow, but traffic is usually light. Be careful not to block roads or laneways. There are some good spots to pull off, but check them on foot first. In spring and after heavy rains, some roads develop mud holes and washouts. Drive slowly, find a safe place to park, then bird from the roadside.

Birding Ethics: Most of Carden is private property. Be friendly to ranchers and others using the back roads. Do not trespass. Birds are easily seen from roadsides without harming them. Always act in the best interest of birds and their habitats. There is a concern that endangered species, such as the Loggerhead Shrike, could be disturbed by birders and photographers. Ontario's Endangered Species Act prohibits (1) the killing, injuring or interfering with endangered species and (2) the interference with or destruction of the habitat of endangered species. The penalty is a fine up to $50,000 or imprisonment up to two years or to both. Report anyone disturbing endangered species to the Ministry of Natural Resources at 705-286-1521.
 

Acknowledgements: I thank Jean Iron for photos and for setting up this webpage. Peter Burke did the illustration of the Sedge Wren. Andrew Jano kindly produced the map.

Ron Pittaway 4 Anson Street, Box 619, Minden ON  K0M 2K0. Phone 705-286-3471 or 416-445-9297. Email: jeaniron@sympatico.ca